7/20/2023 0 Comments Stock patternsPachmayer recoil pad - grind to fit - $20.Various #8 screws, epoxy, urethane glue, sandpaper, etc.Small piece of Brass for the butt-plate slider.QD Sling Mounts (mfg by Uncle Mike's - 2 sets) - $32. Knock-Down pins (used as alignment pins on the adjustable comb) - $3.T-Trak aluminum rail (in leiu of a "genuine" Anchutz Rail) - $20.Paint (Duracoat paint and overcoat) - about $43.Primer (Epoxy-based catalyzed primer in a can) - about $22.Fillers (Epoxy-Sculpt and Bondo) - $10 if you don't already have some.Rifle stock blank (laminated blank from Boyd's - ) - $40.This is the first "from scratch" rifle stock I've built (besides the inletting) so I planned on painting it from the outset - thus making the building process a *little* less stressful since mistakes can be corrected (filled) without it being as obvious as it would be on a natural wood stock. I don't think I'd use this technique on a higher-powered center-fire rifle, but in this case I wasn't worried about the small compromise in structural integrity between this method and machining the stock from a solid piece. Why? Because "inletting" (machining the stock so that it holds the action of the rifle) is one of the more complex and time-consuming parts of building a stock and I knew I'd probably just throw the original stock in a closet and forget it forever (and be annoyed every time I had to move it out of the way). "unique" way of building this stock - namely, I took the original bedded stock, cut away all the parts I didn't want, and built the new stock around the skeleton of the old one. I also knew that once I had the stock set up for me, I probably wouldn't need to adjust it again, so I decided to sacrifice speed of adjustment for simplicity. Goals for this design: 1) As light as possible 2) Somewhat adjustable 3) Symmetrical to accomodate weak-hand shooting 4) As simply constructed as possible 5) Keep costs down while keeping quality/function reasonaly high There are a lot of target stock designs out there with more adjustments than I would know what to do with - but that "adjustability" adds complexity, cost, and weight to the stock. The original stock wasn't very comfortable for me, and was more appropriate for hunting than the target shooting that I typically do, so I decided to build a new one. 22 WMR and although I was extremely impressed with the accuracy of the rifle "out of the box", the stock was another story. Introduction: I recently picked up a Russian-made Izhmash "Biathlon Basic" in. Author's Note: There are concepts in this instructable that go beyond their application to gun stocks - including general woodoworking, sculpting, and finishing - so even if gun stocks aren't your "thing" you may still find something useful here.
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